Throughout this series, we have heard some of the challenges facing the manufacturing industry in Cambodia and what the industry should focus on when looking to the future. We have also gotten insight into the experiences of working in the industry and at Pactics in specific. On the fourth and final part of the Fibers of Pactics Capsule, Dorian van der Mullen and Kelsey Tsuchiyama go deeper into Pactics’ origins, role in the industry, and hopes for the future with Naing (Wave) Vannoeun, Pactics’ Factory Manager and first employee hired over a decade ago, and Piet Holten, Pactics’ Founder and Chairman.

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Previous parts of this series have touched on some of the benefits of working at Pactics. In Part III of Fibers of Pactics, Kelsey Tsuchiyama and Dorian van der Mullen expand on this with Lay Sreyem, Pactics’ Group Treasurer, and Thim Chanreaksmey, Pactics’ Compliance Officer. Both Sreyem and Reaksmey have experienced the highs and lows with Pactics and explain why they have stayed for nearly 10 years. 

Stay tuned for the final episode of Fibers of Pactics to be released next week!

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Tune in to Part 2 of the series to hear from Mrs. Vong Hoy, an operator at Pactics, and Mrs. Chanthea Srim, a supervisor at Pactics, to talk about their experiences working in the manufacturing industry of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, some of the changes they’ve witnessed in Cambodia’s manufacturing industry over the years and what they hope for the future. 

Stay tuned for more in the Capsule Series, Fibers of Pactics! 

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Tune in to the first part of the series where Kelsey Tsuchiyama and Dorian van der Mullen sit down with Sopanhchakpor Phet, Pactics’ Digital Printing and Sublimation Development Manager, and Eang Khoing Pav, Pactics' General Manager, to discuss the changes they’ve witnessed in Cambodia’s manufacturing industry in the past 20 years and what they hope for the future. 

Stay tuned for the rest of the series in the following weeks!

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On this episode of Unspun, Bangladeshi scholar and NYU Professor Dr. Dina Siddiqi joins Danielle, Catherine, and Lauren to talk about her work undoing harmful narratives of Bangladeshi garment workers, what is missing from conversations about the Bangladesh garment industry, and the importance of structural changes. Dr. Dina Siddiqi examines topics at the intersection of gender and human rights including transnational feminist politics, women’s work in the ready-made garment industry, and the idea of “saving” the universal garment worker—a common trope of the anti-fast fashion movement. 

Thanks for listening to another episode of Unspun and for joining the conversation to create a new vision for the future of fashion and home. Huge thanks to this week’s guest Dr. Dina Siddiqi for sharing her perspective on the industry. 

To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com. 

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Transforming garment workers into emblems of the labor movement largely ignores the complex power dynamics they experience as workers with varied identities whether it’s gender, geography, race, or class. This narrative also intensifies existing power structures in the industry, such as global hierarchies and consumer-worker hierarchies, which can inadvertently be more harmful to workers. In her last remote year at NYU, Kelsey, along with a team of NYU classmates, created a zine to explore these topics.

To hear what other questions organizers, campaigners, and WE should be asking ourselves as we stand in solidarity with workers around the world, tune in to the latest episode of Unspun and check out this .

Huge thanks to this week’s guest Kelsey Tsuchiyama for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can find Kelsey on Linkedin.

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To learn more about Arjen’s experiences at Pactics and what he hopes for the future of the industry tune in to the latest episode of Unspun. 

Special Note from our Team: A cherished intern from Population will be headed to Cambodia to work with Arjen and Pactics on the Supplier Code of Conduct early 2022. Stay tuned for more updates! 

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Kim describes herself as a “student of human rights turned garment factory manager turned sustainable fashion critic.” While she always had an interest in the global political economy and supply chains, she wanted to learn more about what this looks like from the manufacturer's perspective. Tune in to listen to Kim's experience @tonledesign and @pactics, and to hear about what she's doing on @manufactured_podcast.

To join the conversation with Unpsun, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com. 

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SELVA \ NEGRA was an early supporter of the Garment Worker Protection Act or Senate Bill 62 and has worked with the Garment Worker Center to help get the recent bill passed.

Huge thanks to Kristen Gonzalez for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can follow her on Instagram @selvanegra_ or @kristenita_.  

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To hear more of Benh and her experience transitioning from a corporate career to owning her own jewelry brand, what being a small maker means to her, and her approach to sustainability, tune in to the latest episode of Unspun.

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On this episode of Unspun, Ngozi Okaro, Founder and Executive Director of Custom Collaborative sits down with Lauren, Danielle, and Catherine to discuss her work with Custom Collaborative and her vision for a US-based sewn goods industry at large. At the heart of her work and this discussion is the disconnect between the skilled work required in the sewn goods industry and how that work is valued by society.

Custom Collaborative “trains, mentors, and advocates for and with low to no-income and immigrant women to build the skills necessary to achieve economic success in the sustainable fashion industry and broader society.”

Thanks for listening to another episode of Unspun and for joining the conversation to create a new vision for the future of fashion and home. Huge thanks to this week’s guest Ngozi Okaro for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can follow Ngozi on Instagram at @the.ngozi and Custom Collaborative @customcolab.

To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.

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From studying national resource management conservation in school to working for local solid waste departments and the NYC Department of Sanitation, Marisa Adler brings a waste and recycling perspective to textile circularity. Several years ago, Adler moved from the NYC Department of Sanitation to her current position at RRS where she primarily focuses on textiles, fashion apparel, and upholstery waste in the U.S.

To hear more of Marisa Adler’s expertise regarding global waste supply chains, what is necessary to create scalable recycling systems, and solutions she has seen, tune into the latest episode of Unspun. 

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Perkins got his start with circularity when he worked at Mohawk Industries, where at the time the carpet industry was facing major backlash for their contribution to global landfill waste. Perkins brought this early experience into the fashion industry, leading the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute and Fashion Positive initiative.

Tune in to learn more about Lewis' experience in circularity, from the obstacles he’s identified to the solutions he’s contributing to, and how he looks to the young generation (@genfseries) for inspiration. ⁠

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Numerous companies are exploring circularity to capitalize on the second sale of their products, reduce their production costs, as well as manage risks associated with not taking end of life responsibility of their manufactured products.

Tune in to learn about major circularity milestones, the dawn of luxury recommerce and how brand's are approaching both the consumption conundrum and the fear of cannabalization.

To join the conversation follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.

This episode of Unpsun was recorded in 2020 and released at a later date.

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Cotton Diaries is a global community of storytellers and professionals committed to making cotton supply chains more sustainable. She brings with her a unique experience having directly worked with and interviewed cotton farmers from all over the world. Her work spans the entire cotton value chain from seed to shelf, and focuses on how to center the voices and experiences of farmers as we work to make cotton cultivation more sustainable and equitable. 

Huge thanks to this week’s guest Marzia Lanfranchi for sharing her perspective on the industry. You can follow her @cottondiaries. 

To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com. 

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Responsible purchasing practices most often codified in codes of conduct, are a new foundation for social and labor programs, but they’re just a start. On this episode of Unspun, Lauren, Catherine and Danielle sit down to discuss the birth of social compliance, transparency and traceability and what’s needed to create radical accountability: shifting our lens to the entire value chain.

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On this episode of Unspun, Christian Smith joins Danielle, Lauren and Catherine for a conversation about the sustainable fashion industry, his thoughts on the white middle class dominance of the space, and the stakeholder engagement needed to make real progress. He reminds the industry that this should be one of the “most diverse job profiles you could ever see,” as we are ensuring sustainability for the “future generations of all people.”

Furthermore, he talks about a people-centered approach that acknowledges the legacies of the past, while seeking solutions that empower garment workers today, through a living wage.

Tune in to listen to our conversation with Christian Smith and follow him @inclusi_.

To join the conversation, follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.

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Authentic narratives require brands to understand where they’ve been, where they are and where they’re going. To tell authentic narratives, we have to interrogate who has the power to dictate how stories are told, as well as evaluate which stakeholders we are centering, not only in the stories we tell, but also in the audience we tell those stories to. 

To join the conversation follow us @wearepopulation or visit our website wearepopulation.com.

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tonlé is a slow fashion brand operating in a way that values both the environment and workers. ⁠They’re often touted for their zero-waste model and exclusive use of offcuts and deadstock to make their products. ⁠

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But what’s the most interesting about tonlé’s business model is the way it treats its workers. Employees at tonlé’s workshop in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, are treated with equity and respect. They receive fair compensation, have reasonable hours, and have opportunities to advance.⁠

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Tune in to listen to our conversation with Sokpriya Yan also known as Sreyoun and @rachel_faller of @tonlédesign.

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tonlé is a slow fashion brand operating in a way that values both the environment and workers. ⁠They’re often touted for their zero-waste model and exclusive use of offcuts and deadstock to make their products. ⁠

⁠

But what’s the most interesting about tonlé’s business model is the way it treats its workers. Employees at tonlé’s workshop in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, are treated with equity and respect. They receive fair compensation, have reasonable hours, and have opportunities to advance.⁠

⁠

Tune in to listen to our conversation with Sokpriya Yan also known as Sreyoun and @rachel_faller of @tonlédesign.

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The truth is these problems have existed long before the pandemic hit; however, this unprecedented time has magnified them to a point where they can no longer be ignored. And if we don’t change our approach, they will persist even after the pandemic ends. Danielle, Lauren, and Catherine explore the unequal power dynamics that exist in the industry and what needs to happen going forward in this second episode of Unspun, a podcast brought to you by Population.

To join the conversation follow us @wearepopulation or visit wearepopulation.com.

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2021 was a reckoning of all kinds for the fashion industry. The trend to ignore harm, while promoting a facade of good, has been played out. Not surprised by any of the responses and reactions of industry professionals–from green-washing to woke-washing–Whitney McGuire, co-founder of Sustainable Brooklyn and attorney at law, is still in relentless pursuit to redefine sustainability for the fashion and creative industries. On this episode of Unspun Whitney, talks to Lauren, Danielle and Catherine about how she addresses the root of unsustainability with an approach of regeneration and liberation, both personally and publicly.

In the sustainability movement, the onus of responsibility is put on consumers. That can no longer be the case. McGuire’s approach is truly people-centered, and specifically focuses on the safety, justice and liberation of the Black community. She’s asking a crucial question: What causes Black consumers to feel unsafe where they spend their money?

You can follow her work on Instagram @sustainablebk or @whitneyrmcguire or visit her website whitneyrmcguire.com. 

To join the conversation follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation and visit our website wearepopulation.com. 

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Sustainability is not a new concept and, despite what their seemingly ubiquitous presence in sustainability might imply, it was not created by white people. It has existed for centuries as a foundation of life for the global majority: Black, Indigenous and People of Color (BIPOC). Therefore, we must center the invaluable experiences of BIPOC in creating solutions to the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry at large. On this episode of Unspun, Dominique Drakeford, the co-founder of Sustainable Brooklyn and founder of MelaninASS, joins Lauren, Danielle and Catherine in a conversation about the regenerative and liberative frameworks needed to evolve how the industry approaches sustainability.  

Drakeford views this white supremacist system as operating through three main pillars: public policy, marketing, and education. As she explains on The Root, a podcast series co-produced by Drakeford and Kestrel Jenkins of Conscious Chatter, these pillars control access, perception and information, respectively.

If you want to learn more about Dominique Drakeford’s journey, regenerative and liberative approaches to sustainability, and what she imagines for the future of sustainability in the fashion industry, tune in to the first episode of Unspun.

You can follow her work on Instagram @sustainablebk , @dominiquedrakeford or visit her website melaninass.com.

To join the conversation follow us on Instagram @wearepopulation and visit our website wearepopulation.com. 

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